04-03-2003, 12:05 AM
Ask. Wherever you're buying from, ask. "Is this combat ready?" Simple as that.
A good guideline: Stainless Steel = display piece. You can tell the moment you look at a piece that it's stainless, because it has a shine that'd blind you a mile away. The amount of polishing that it would take to get Spring Steel to that same sheen is enormous, and so even a "polished" Spring Steel will be detectable from Stainless. Spring Steel = short for truck spring steel. Hard, durable, yet flexible enough to absorb shock (depending on how it was forged / made). More often than not, a spring steel weapon is combat ready. Not ALWAYS, but usually. That's why I said, ASK. And, one last metal, or type of forging: Damascus. Very durable, made from several different metals (IIRC; my sword trivia is nothing compared to, say, Rhyd's). My personal favorite. It has an acid / oil like sheen to it, a dark hue, like if you dipped metal in gasoline sitting on water, and it retained that rainbow effect. It's a very dull effect, so it doesn't shine with pretty colors. Just adds a very nice (IMHO) touch.
If you want to start collecting, I recommend C.A.S. Iberia. Most of their stuff is combat ready spring steel, and they'll almost always say that they are "fully functional". Museum Replicas is another choice, although I've heard that their "combat ready" pieces are not as durable as one might think. Other than that, just try to find a good knife store. At the malls here we have Chesapeke Knife & Tool. I use them for most of my orders, as they can order things if it's not available in the store. And, I know some people there. :) Also, if you ever can get out to King Richard's Faire, I highly recommend it. Probably one of the best places to go here on the East Coast. :)
If Japanese swords are your fancy (let's face it, they make beautiful works of art, that are also fully functional), you have two basic choices: forged, and forged & folded. Forged is basically the equivalent of Spring Steel weapons above. The process, I believe, is different than how they mass-produce other, non-Japanese swords, but the outcome is about the same: a combat ready piece. I own several (2, IIRC) forged katanas, and one forged Ninja-To (cheap piece, really, but functional; besides, Ninja-Tos aren't my thing). Now, forged & folded is made in the traditional Japanese style of "folding". This was done to remove impurities in the metal, and leaves a beautiful "waterline" called a hamon line. It's a wavy design that shows how many times the blade was "folded". Expensive pieces, but truly works of art. Generally they are part of a 3-piece set: Katana (longsword), Wakizashi (short-sword), and Tanto (dagger). The Tantos usually run $600+, Wakizashis $800+, and Katanas $1200+. Like I said, expensive, but worth the money if you're a collector (IMHO).
As for learning, I couldn't tell you. But, alot of people who work at sword / knife stores are also reenactors, I've found. So, you may be able to ask them where to find a good place to learn the arts. And, as others have said, a dojo or fencing place would be a good idea to look into, as well.
A good guideline: Stainless Steel = display piece. You can tell the moment you look at a piece that it's stainless, because it has a shine that'd blind you a mile away. The amount of polishing that it would take to get Spring Steel to that same sheen is enormous, and so even a "polished" Spring Steel will be detectable from Stainless. Spring Steel = short for truck spring steel. Hard, durable, yet flexible enough to absorb shock (depending on how it was forged / made). More often than not, a spring steel weapon is combat ready. Not ALWAYS, but usually. That's why I said, ASK. And, one last metal, or type of forging: Damascus. Very durable, made from several different metals (IIRC; my sword trivia is nothing compared to, say, Rhyd's). My personal favorite. It has an acid / oil like sheen to it, a dark hue, like if you dipped metal in gasoline sitting on water, and it retained that rainbow effect. It's a very dull effect, so it doesn't shine with pretty colors. Just adds a very nice (IMHO) touch.
If you want to start collecting, I recommend C.A.S. Iberia. Most of their stuff is combat ready spring steel, and they'll almost always say that they are "fully functional". Museum Replicas is another choice, although I've heard that their "combat ready" pieces are not as durable as one might think. Other than that, just try to find a good knife store. At the malls here we have Chesapeke Knife & Tool. I use them for most of my orders, as they can order things if it's not available in the store. And, I know some people there. :) Also, if you ever can get out to King Richard's Faire, I highly recommend it. Probably one of the best places to go here on the East Coast. :)
If Japanese swords are your fancy (let's face it, they make beautiful works of art, that are also fully functional), you have two basic choices: forged, and forged & folded. Forged is basically the equivalent of Spring Steel weapons above. The process, I believe, is different than how they mass-produce other, non-Japanese swords, but the outcome is about the same: a combat ready piece. I own several (2, IIRC) forged katanas, and one forged Ninja-To (cheap piece, really, but functional; besides, Ninja-Tos aren't my thing). Now, forged & folded is made in the traditional Japanese style of "folding". This was done to remove impurities in the metal, and leaves a beautiful "waterline" called a hamon line. It's a wavy design that shows how many times the blade was "folded". Expensive pieces, but truly works of art. Generally they are part of a 3-piece set: Katana (longsword), Wakizashi (short-sword), and Tanto (dagger). The Tantos usually run $600+, Wakizashis $800+, and Katanas $1200+. Like I said, expensive, but worth the money if you're a collector (IMHO).
As for learning, I couldn't tell you. But, alot of people who work at sword / knife stores are also reenactors, I've found. So, you may be able to ask them where to find a good place to learn the arts. And, as others have said, a dojo or fencing place would be a good idea to look into, as well.
Roland *The Gunslinger*